Underwhelmed at Avila
Avila
1 Charles Street South
Boston, MA


When I heard Davio’s was opening a new sister restaurant a few blocks down the street, I was intrigued. Stuff@Night profiled the restaurant in their Summer Preview issue, but were not able to comment on the quality of food or the space since the restaurant only opened last Thursday. All I knew is that Avila was a new take on contemporary Mediterranean cuisine. Therefore, I took it upon myself to investigate. I called a friend who I hadn’t seen in a while, and she and I braved the rain and headed toward the Theater District.

Located right across from the Radisson and opposite Bennigan’s, Avila fits perfectly into neighborhood and its location alone will make it a fantastic before and after theater hot spot. Having been disappointed in restaurant décor as of late (see Radius, Great Bay and Via Matta), I will say I was pleased by the neutral colors that dominated the space. The bar was large, the kitchen partially open and the over ambience was one of great relaxation and elegance. Nothing was overstated, and even the plates and silverware followed this model of simple grace. Because of the weather, the dining room was nearly empty and we ere treated to a great seat right by one of the big windows that look over Charles St.

Our waiter warmly greeted us and offered to explain the menu to us, since half of it is “small plates.” We declined his offer; the small plate trend is something I have experience far too often and, in my opinion, is a trend that needs to cease and desist. Tapas (no matter what you call small plates, that what they are) belongs in a TAPAS bar! Now, both of us were very hungry and quite perplexed to see no salads or appetizers proper on the menu. Instead, we ordered two small plates: a beef tartare and salt cod fritters. Both were fine, if not overpriced ($15, $8 respectively). I have had better, but more often I have had worse. Before I get to the real food, I will mention that I was pleased that Avila carries Reyka vodka, and I greatly enjoyed my martini!

After carefully looking over the menu, my guest decided upon the Braised Short Ribs and I selected the evenings special, Mediterranean Spice Rubbed Duck Breast with Fingerling Potatoes and Asparagus. The menu was varied in both choice and in price; prices ranged from 25-45 for entrees, with sides all costing $8. Her short ribs were quite nice – the flavor and texture were perfect. Unfortunately, she should have ordered a side because the meal seemed to consist mainly of meat. My duck was a large meal, but seemed extremely lacking in the flavor department. I expected exquisite spices and I got a nice piece of duck that tasted as if it were salt and peppered. The presentation was phenomenal. It was simple, basic and the oblong rectangular plates help present the food in an appetizing fashion.

Dessert was good, but again nothing to make me salivate and want more. For example, the coconut bread pudding at Bomboa haunts my dreams…. The chocolate lava cake from Avila did not. My companion’s churros were tasty, but how hard is it to deep fry some dough. What I will say about the dessert course is this: Here was the first course where I saw the Mediterranean influence at work. Our fantastic waiter described each dessert and referenced which coastal country originated said dish. Throughout the rest of the meal the Mediterranean influence was found in the description alone – the food just didn’t capture that warm, flavorful feeling of Greek, Spanish, Italian and French foods.

With so many great restaurants in Boston, I wouldn’t rush back to Avila. Perhaps after their first few months, the place will improve. The staff is great, the venue is nice, and the food is decent, but at such high prices the food should be great! No matter how you look at it, $45 for a veal chop is very high and that type of price should only be charged by a restaurant that delivers impeccable food, full of rich flavor and texture – Avila does not do this… yet.