Anchovies
433 Columbus Ave
(617) 266-5088
Back Bay
2.7.06

If you’re in the mood for Italian but don’t want to make the trek to the North End, keep your eyes peeled on Columbus Avenue for the small neon sign: Anchovies. Mind you, this is not the place to show off those new Prada shades; what seems to be a dark, narrow hallway is in fact the entire restaurant. Looking at the crowd you might wonder, “Have I been out of the loop all this time or is this place just that small?” They’re even busy on Tuesday nights, so bring no more than three of your closest friends and be prepared to rub elbows with an eclectic hodgepodge of Bostonians—blue collar, white collar, no collar, popped collar.

If you thought the décor at T.G.I. Fridays couldn’t get any more random, I am (not so) pleased to inform you that you’ve been sorely mistaken. The walls that hold Anchovies together are littered with a unique collection of cowboy-hat-wearing cattle skulls, fishing nets, an assortment of glass bottles, and of course, the requisite Blue Marlin strapped to the ceiling. Although you might be deterred by the interior design and/or the long waiting list, the bartender will be quick to put a smile on your face with a strong cocktail but a not-so-potent tab. Whether you choose to eat at the bar or in a booth, you can be sure of three things: 1) Your seat will be made of wood (and you might be wondering if the Pine Barrens are still standing) 2) at least one menu item will have anchovies, (I’m not talkin’ just Caesar dressing) and 3) there will be enough cash left in your wallet to pay for you and your friends’ cab home (if you feel so inclined).

The menu is like the staff—no B.S. If you’re having a craving for spaghetti and meatballs, pizza, stromboli, (or all three!) this is the perfect place to satisfy your gastronomical needs at far from astronomical prices. The hand-written menu and limited specials may not seem so impressive, but every entrée at Anchovies is a safe bet. The extra-large portions will leave your co-workers wondering where you went to dinner last night…the scent of chicken-by-the-sea doesn’t quite compare to chicken parmigiana, now does it? Diners beware: cheap eats still come at a price. Although you might save yourself a trip to the North End, Anchovies is by no means a place for a quick fix. Patrons stay long after dinner, whether it’s to buy another round or to see which collared Bostonian pops in the door next.

As you’ll inevitably leave feeling more like a sardine than an anchovy, I recommend this eatery for all but the claustrophobic.

--Jen G.